Last week I posted about Blending 101 with a focus on the lid. To complete that post I will be detailing some lower lash line techniques. The lower lash line (when done right) can take a makeup look to a whole new level.
Before we discuss the placement of eyeshadow and how to blend let’s touch on tightlining. Tightlining is placing a gel liner into the waterline. Depending on what look you want to go for there are a few ways to place the liner for different effects.
Placing liner on the upper portion of the lash line creates the look of fuller lashes without creating a harsh line. This is great for soft and minimal looks, or eyes with limited amounts of lid space.
Placing a skin-tone liner in the waterline creates the illusion of larger more open eyes. This technique is great when using deeper shades so the eyes have a smokey effect but don’t get lost in the shadow. In the same token using dark liner can give a smolder or sultry eye effect.
My 2 favorite brushes for lower lash line work are a Flat Synthetic Brush and a Tiny Blending Brush. See the example pictures below.
Flat Synthetic Brush: A flat brush that’s used to place an intense amount of color in a small area. Best if used right under eyeliner (waterline).
Tiny Blending Brush: A very small brush with a rounded or pointed tip. Used to blend out shadows for a smokey effect. Best used after the color has been applied underneath the waterline.
After I have completed blending shadows on the lid I like to do my foundation and concealer then come back and finish the lower lash line. I switch it up sometimes but not much. Following this allows me to see how intense or minimal I want the finished look to be.
For everyday looks, I apply liner (tightline) then take my Tiny Blending Brush with eyeshadow and lightly use windshield wiper motions and smoke out the liner. This allows the liner to set (stay put throughout the day) and provides a light wash of color. For even more minimal looks I skip the eyeliner altogether.
To create dramatic looks I tightline then apply eyeshadow below that by using a Flat Brush, then I use a Tiny Blending Brush underneath, and blend that out. Bringing the shadow down a bit farther gives a more intense look.
To finish off either technique I use mascara to coat the lower lashes. If I have a client with sparse lashes I skip this step.
Thanks for hanging out!